Batch 180 · Commission 08

Pour Soi

An anchor

As a perfumer, it is somehow especially difficult to find or make a perfume that feels like my own. The reason, I suppose, is that my own preferences have been quieted by the louder pull of curiosity. In my everyday life, unless a scent is straight out alarming through its intensity or association (like harsh chemicals, mold, etc.), I usually at first find it neither pleasant nor unpleasant. The smell of a damp laundry cellar: interesting.

Nonetheless, I was recently craving something that would serve as an anchor, as a scent that can hold space for me, when I am working, when I am resting, and when I am meditating, like a comfortable space.

My Oolong tea tincture in 96% alcohol had also just reached three weeks of age, which is not much for a tincture, but still I was eager to use it, and I already liked how it smelled. So the Oolong became a little bit of the permission to make something, just for myself.

I first wanted to make something reminiscent of the jungle that would allow me to sink deep into meditation. During the process I realized that what I really wanted was something more simple and comforting, but still contemplative.

In the end I settled on a core accord of Frankincense, Nagarmotha (which smells rooty, earthy), and Sandalwood. Together they carry the quality of sacred space, contemplative and warm. The Oolong became the spark, the personal voice in what would otherwise be a more classical composition. Guaiacwood added a slight smokiness. Orris, only 1%, gave a barely-there ink-and-paper quality I hadn't expected to want. Bergamot and Coriander seed at the top, for a fresh lift.

As of now, it has been macerating for 5 days. The changes have been drastic: in the beginning, the Sandalwood was surprisingly present. Another day, the Nagarmotha was overwhelming everything else. This is expected — for another two to three weeks it will keep changing before eventually settling into a more rounded shape.

FORMULA · ABBREVIATED
  • TGreen Bergamot2.0 %
  • TCoriander Seed CO₂1.0 %
  • HFrankincense carterii CO₂2.0 %
  • HOrris Root CO₂ (1% Irones)0.8 %
  • HOolong Tea Tincture 30%4.1 %
  • BNagarmotha3.5 %
  • BSandalwood Indonesia3.3 %
  • BGuaiacwood1.2 %
  • Ethanol 96°82.0 %
T = TOP · H = HEART · B = BASE